Northern California Surf Sesh

Salmon creek is a beach break just north of Bodega Bay in Northern California. I would say that the water temp was easily in the 50’s, the sky was overcast and gloomy as all hell. This was a time to bust out the mutant hood and the gloves that Ryan Diller let me borrow to stave off hypothermia brought on by the fringed water of the north pacific. Pulling up to the parking lot I was confronted with the view of what looked like peeling peaks up and down the beach, all around 3-4 foot which to me seemed to be an unusually inviting sight to see in the Pacific northwest. I was overcome with the same joy that takes over when I see Cottons of Salt Creek breaking with such synchronicity and perfection in each wave. Short yelps and hoots of excitement and anticipation loomed in my throat itching to get out. I began to put on my wet suit, a 4.3 mm O’Neal Mutant suit with a hood attachment that had been gathering dust in the corner of my closet until this point (no need for this blasted apparatus in 64 degree water in and around Orange County). Strugling momentarily trying to squeeze my face and head through the neoprene hood I found that it fit quite snug on my head, enveloping my face in a warm comforting rubber caressing my face and clasping to my ears making it difficult to hear anything other than the roar of the ocean waves. After I had dawned my neoprene rubber outer skin, it was time to brave the fringed untamed and unfamiliar beach break of Salmon Creek. Entering the water, my feet were first to feel the cold water penetrating the pours of my wet suit, sending a chill up my legs. I was blessed with a lull moment walking to the shoreline and taking full advantage as I began the paddle out into the line up. A small shore breaking wave broke just before I was clear of the impact zone, forcing me to duck-dive and become fully amerced in the pacific ocean. The cold water rushed over me and shot through the seems between the hood and my facial tissue wetting first my ears and neck, then spiting into my back and chest, but I was not racked with fits of shivering nor was I paralyzed with bone chilling cold water shock, feeling strangely at peace and in tune with the water. It’s the kind of feeling I could only equate to being with a good friend who knows you with the utmost intimacy and respect meeting you in a familiar place and being completely at peace in that moment of time in this space of existence.

-It doesn’t get more real than that.

Midnight Speculations on a gloomy night

-I wrote this after the girl i call my Soul Mate sent me a picture via text message. Naturally i could not see this image because of my blasted cell phone plan, i was then left to speculate the content of this message on my balcony at around midnight under the light of a lit cigarette.

I wish i could see what you are looking at right now, the image you tried to send me. I curse my inability to view multimedia messages and long to see what you are currently looking at. But then again, my imagination is churning with activity as my subconscious draws a visualization of what lay in your sight at that particular moment in time. No doubt there is a burning campfire in the vicinity brightly pulsating a luminescent glow of orange and yellow which bathes the surroundings in a flickering undulating light that casts shifting shadows among the among the silhouettes of the forest trees. I would like to think that perhaps you have reached the "Worlds End" vantage point from which it is possible to see Southern California spread out before your eyes like a vast beach blanket of shimmering lights that wrap with the curvature of the planet sphere, although i doubt the view is that impressive because of this blasted marine layer that socks our land in a deep thick San Fransisco like gloom. I bet you can see the moon up there in the mountains. Here in the coastal foothills the clouds obscure the moon's silver incandescence, I pray that the moon is smiling with her pail white crescent back at you and bathing you in its cleansing spiritual light.